Last annoying question

[Brad Y]

Well I have the boat- check
Have decided on the livewell- check 62L insulated tub

Have decided on the floor- check 12mm structural ply with 3 coats of lacquer

Have decided on the carpet- check good old grey

Have decided on how to plumb the livewell- check TOP SECRET

have decided on the casting platform design-check straight forward design

Have decided on how to attach the braces for the floor and platforms- check welding all the way

Now what ally material to use for the braces?

I am favouring 40mm by 5mm ally flat bar, 20mm 90degree angle also sounds good if it is turned upside down with the two lips facing upwards. It has to be welded to the bottom of the seats.

Whats everybodies opinion or preference?

[don]

I think you will find that the seats are full of foam for flotation ( for when YOU forget the bungs ) and that you will not be able to weld to them.

How high do you want the floor to be?
I used 25mmx3mm square tube across the floor and side gussets and welded them across the boat .

If you want to attach anything to the seats you can use large headed rivets.

with you ply check on the price of 9mm ( thats what I used ) a little lighter and does the job no worries. Be carfull some times 9 is dearer than 12.

hope that helps

[Zac 87]

hey don
im not sure weather to go 12 or 9 mm ply
also did the 25 x 25 3mm square tube add much weight.
if you have any larger photos of the bracing setup you did on the 350 proline could you please send them to bevevans@iinet.net.au
they would be a huge help while im planing mine
thanks
Zac

[Brad Y]

Ha

Don thats interesting about the ply, as I got warned away from 9. Trying to keep the weight down though. How does the 9mm take weight? any flex?

Was thinking of riveting the supports to the seats- before i was going to weld them. Would be easier that way for me. They will be right on the bottom of the seats to keep the floor as close to water height for stability, then the platform is going to be as high as the seat level.

So rivets hold fine? i will use two in any case

[don]

I will go out side and see if I can get some shots of mine to help

[Brad Y]

Cheers mate

Seems weird- we all share the info etc then on the comp day we compete. Its an amazing way to find things out.

I totally forgot the foat would melt when they would try to weld it. Its just that I'm not sure i could trust the rivets with hoilding the floor weight plus my weight. Here is a plan of what I want to do.

The thick black lines on either side of the livewell and on the edges of the boat are the supports and will be bent at 90 degrees to the floor and then welded or riveted onto the sides of the seats. there will be two rivets on each end of each support. Distance between seats is 850 (on the vertical) and beam at the bottom of the seats is 1150 (on the horizontal) Also there will be supports from the outer braces to the inner ones halfway down (425) These will be welded to the long supports

Its all in real colour too

Dont stay up too late tryin to get pics up. plenty of time another day.

[don]

Zac
they are the only pictures I have got .If you save that one and zoom in on it you may see more detail.


Brad
The mor people we can help the more fun on comp day.

I couldn't get any shots so I have done a QUICK drawing hope it helps both you guys.



Sorry guys when I learn how to get it to the right size I will post it

[doctor bromley]

You might find that your livewell is too small for comps!

[Mr nofish]

how many fish do ya weigh in at thses super punt comps.????

[Brad Y]

in the super punt comps you only weigh in two fish so there will never be more than 2 in the livewell. Thats why they are 60L.

basically a scaled down version of AOY but no outboard- leccys only

Don i spoke to a boat builder and he said not to do anything like I have planned. he said the rivets will pull through and having no brace from the hull to the floor may result in bending the supports. Apparently only tac welds can be used on the base of the seat if they are required otherwise the foam will melt.

So i went back to the drawing board

So my second idea is like yours. 20mm tube is the size I will be able to fit in between the ribs and bottom of the seat so I will have to use that. A length of that running down each side that will be welded onto the inside where the sides meet the hull and are reinforced. Tac welded to the bottom of the front seat if more strength is needed. The livewell space will be the same except where it comes to the sides of the livewell, 20mm tube will be welded out from the side supports to make a ring around where the livewell goes. these will come to an inch or so away from the actual livewell area corners and will have more tube running down and welded to the reinforced areas at the base of the hull to hold it all at the correct height.
This setup should be able to support my hatches better too.

Sound safer?

[BIG PETE]

Brad
if you use the big head rivets they will be fine but put some sicaflex the full length of the angle this stuff is super strong i have done the same thing in my punt and i weigh more than most of you guys out there and it hasnt moved or pulled rivets out it sets like the rubber on car tyres

BIG PETE

[Brad Y]

What is the thickness of your seat material. Mine is 1mm and it looks way too flimsy.

I think I will stick to the second plan. It will be more expensive, but the hatches will be easier to mount and I will feel heaps more confident about doing a dance when I land the winning fish

[BIG PETE]

Brad
not sure how thick the seat matterial but i havnt had a prob i have used form ply for my decks and hatches


BIG PETE

[don]

Brad PM me your email adress and I will send you through some drawings that I cann't post up (to biger file ? )

[Brad Y]

Thanks mate. Just got a $1200 tax bill so the boat is going to take a bit longer to build at the moment til I pay it off. Will get the livewell from the shop this weekend and then find out the costs for the building materials and save up for them.

Don check your PM's