Watersnake fuse melting. Please help

James_Hopewell · #1 23-02-2015, 02:22 AM

Yesterday I had the fuse on my watersnake melt. Was using it on full pelt for a bit to get around as I was having troubles with my yamy at the start of the day. It cut out at first (which it's suppose to do if it gets too hot), and then regained power a small amount of time later, and the fuse was very hot at that point. Later on the same thing happened, however it was so hot it actually melted the fuse casing. Just wondering if anyone has had this before? It shouldn't be shorting out at all, so maybe the fuse was just DohDohDohDoh? Not sure just let me know if you've had a similar experience. Will be getting a couple of new fuses anyway. Not trying to bag Watersnake

Cheers

Klinkerfish · #2 23-02-2015, 02:35 AM

I have heard several things like this From watersnake electrics.....

smackmaa · #3 23-02-2015, 03:52 AM

Mine melts aswell. I've gone through about 3 in a year so far and to be honest, i just live with it. I did talk to a local guy who fixes them recently and he said he reckons that sometimes there is some sort of electrical feedback through crossed wires in the circuit. This sometimes happens when wires have rubbed together over time through some sort of wear and tear. A sign that this may have happened is if your driving to and from the boat ramp with the leccy power attached and occasionally see the prop spin in the rear view mirror. Mine has done that in the past but i havent seen it happen in months.

If the fuse housing melts on the water, you can get through the day by just attaching to the battery minus the fuse. I guess its a bit of gamble but I have done it a few times now and changed the housing next available opportunity. In any case, only a few years ago they didnt even have fuses on the battery cables!

jameshallam · #4 23-02-2015, 04:39 AM

I just have a 50 amp circuit breaker on my snake no fuses going strong for 5 years

Alex · #5 23-02-2015, 05:11 AM

I would start from checking if connections are clean and tight.

It could be that the cables are undersized for the current carrying capacity of the battery / electric circuit. Suggest you upsize cables next. Fitting cb won't resolve the problem, you need to find what causes the current to become too high to heat up cables and the fuse holder.

The best way is to check the max current that the electric can draw (from the name plate or manual) and size the cable and fuse accordingly.

Cheers

Piranha · #6 23-02-2015, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jameshallam

I just have a 50 amp circuit breaker on my snake no fuses going strong for 5 years

Same here, no fuse necessary

Brad Y · #7 23-02-2015, 09:44 PM

Fuses dont melt. They break and dont keep working after that. Its a sign of either a fault or maybe the wrong size. What size fuse are you using? 12V? 24V? How long and what size are your cables? What connections do you have on the cables? Are the connections all tight and clean? So many possibilities. A good resettable circuit breaker is worth purchasing.

Had my 24v snake for a few years now and its been fantastic. They are the simplest and easiest motors to maintain and repair.

smackmaa · #8 23-02-2015, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brad Y

Fuses dont melt. They break and dont keep working after that.

What he meant was the fuse housing melted. Mine does the same despite the fact the fuse stays in tact? with mine all the cables (including the fuse housing) came with the watersnake.. do you mean that perhaps one has to upgrade cables from the factory ones? why should you have to?

A circuit breaker is a good idea though

Brad Y · #9 23-02-2015, 10:07 PM

The cables come with the motor but if your battery is at the back of the boat and the motor at the front that can mean possibly 6-7m of cable needing to be added depending on length of the boat and cable route. Not using the right size cables can cause problems especially where it goes into a plastic fuse holder. It will get hot and melt it no problem. If the battery is within reach of the original cables then that wont be an issue. I would do away with the plastic holder and fuse and go for a resettable breaker.

smackmaa · #10 23-02-2015, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brad Y

The cables come with the motor but if your battery is at the back of the boat and the motor at the front that can mean possibly 6-7m of cable needing to be added depending on length of the boat and cable route. Not using the right size cables can cause problems especially where it goes into a plastic fuse holder. It will get hot and melt it no problem. If the battery is within reach of the original cables then that wont be an issue. I would do away with the plastic holder and fuse and go for a resettable breaker.

ok cool.. I have my battery up front in reach of the cables and the damn thing still melts. Anyways, circuit breaker it is.

PS.. sorry to hijack your thread James

scubascott · #11 23-02-2015, 11:38 PM

A fuse and a circuit breaker serve the same purpose. You should be able to use a 50A fuse or circuit breaker without a problem. Whichever one you choose to use, neither should be getting that hot. Heat is generated by high resistance joins. This can be a corroded join or a terminal too small for the current. If you have a inline fuse or similar that will heat up bad. 50A inline fuses are available but the inline holders arent designed to maintain that much current, just a transient overload. The wires each side of the fuse holder are normally 5mm which is only good for 37A or so. Your watersnake would be running around 45A at full speed. This is why your housing is melting but your fuse is staying intact. As you said it isnt shorting out, its running under 50A but the wiring isnt able to maintain the current. If you fit a mega fuse and appropriate holder you shouldnt have any problems. Otherwise a circuit breaker works well too.

smackmaa · #12 24-02-2015, 01:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scubascott

A fuse and a circuit breaker serve the same purpose. You should be able to use a 50A fuse or circuit breaker without a problem. Whichever one you choose to use, neither should be getting that hot. Heat is generated by high resistance joins. This can be a corroded join or a terminal too small for the current. If you have a inline fuse or similar that will heat up bad. 50A inline fuses are available but the inline holders arent designed to maintain that much current, just a transient overload. The wires each side of the fuse holder are normally 5mm which is only good for 37A or so. Your watersnake would be running around 45A at full speed. This is why your housing is melting but your fuse is staying intact. As you said it isnt shorting out, its running under 50A but the wiring isnt able to maintain the current. If you fit a mega fuse and appropriate holder you shouldnt have any problems. Otherwise a circuit breaker works well too.

nice explanantion, thanks. Yes inline fuse was supplied with it.

James_Hopewell · #13 24-02-2015, 02:07 AM

All connections are clean and its all a new unit. This was the first time putting it in the water. Just using the standard cables that came with the WS. Not really familiar with this sort of stuff, so could you guys link me to a good circuit breaker and what I would need for a 12V watersnake? Cheers

scubascott · #14 24-02-2015, 04:44 AM

Something like this should do the job

https://www.autoelec.com.au/ssl/publ...id=1770&cat=28

Another option is the Projecta fused battery terminals.

Im guessing the watersnake came with ring terminals attatched to the end of the cables so this should be a straight bolt together job. Place the circuit breaker as close as practical to the battery positive. Battery positive 》CB input 》CB output 》watersnake positive cable. For the negative hook it directly to battery negative post.

You'll need to manufacture a cable to connect between the battery positive and the input stud on the circuit breaker. If your not too confident with it I can crimp one up for you if you cover postage costs.