What product to seal holes on transducer plate?

Lone Ranger · #1 01-10-2006, 08:10 AM

I now have 5 holes on my tranducer plate as I no longer have a sounder, it's gone! ... (don't ask why, things that shouldn't be said on a public forum).

Now I am stuck with 5 holes and I want these sealed as I won't be getting a sounder till sometime next year.

It's rather an easy job to close the holes. I just don't know what product is best to seal it? I have a tube of Sicaflex at home which I bought for some boat purpose a while ago. Will that do the trick? What product do you recommend is the best? I noticed on the holes that it is already starting to rust as the screws on my sounder were totally rusted. Hopefully when I get my new sounder, it won't overlap the same holes.

Any advise would be appreciated.

Cheers LR

Rosie · #2 01-10-2006, 08:29 AM

Just leave them be Carol, No-one will think your boats a heap because of a few neat holes in the place, besides, thats what it's made for and chances are your other one will fit the same holes anyway. It wont rust being aluminium and the holes will look like crap with sicaflex over them.

I reacon most people would agree.

BIG PETE · #3 01-10-2006, 09:17 AM

use some sikaflex will block the holes no prob if you want bring it to my place i can do it for you got some in the shed

Lone Ranger · #4 01-10-2006, 09:37 AM

Well, yeah, guess being female maybe I am a bit fussy? Just looks weird.

But seriously, I don't know much about sounders if any at all. So ya seriously reckon most sounders would take the same holes? And if you say it won't rust, then there is not much concern then, but also thought sealing it may prevent the paintwork from starting to peel. Thanks Pete, if a decision comes down to blocking the hole, I do have some Sicaflex and the job is a piece of cake. Just trying to decide if there is any advantage or disadvantage in closing up the holes.

Rosie · #5 01-10-2006, 10:30 AM

Yeah well if you wan't you can seal it, it's up to you but i think most of them use a standard screw width for the transducer and speed sensor. or how about getting 5 stainless bolts and Nyloc bolts> they will look neater and be ready for next time

just a thought anyway

Lone Ranger · #6 01-10-2006, 10:33 AM

Good thinking 99, knew I could count on you! I think that's a better idea instead of crappy paste. I'll go to Whitworths and check them out as they should have the stainless steel ones. Thanks Ben

Mezaire · #7 01-10-2006, 11:01 AM

I hate to be the bearer of bad new but stainless steel would be what caused the corrosion you had there in the first place, dissimilar metals and all.

My suggestion would be to get some aluminium 2-part putty and fill the holes in that way. It's sandable and you can also drill through it after it's gone off so when it comes time to fit your new sounder it won't matter where the holes are/were!!

You should be able to get it from any good hardware store.

Ben

Rossco32 · #8 01-10-2006, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mezaire
I hate to be the bearer of bad new but stainless steel would be what caused the corrosion you had there in the first place, dissimilar metals and all.

My suggestion would be to get some aluminium 2-part putty and fill the holes in that way. It's sandable and you can also drill through it after it's gone off so when it comes time to fit your new sounder it won't matter where the holes are/were!!

You should be able to get it from any good hardware store.

Ben

No need to fill the holes at all as they are in an external bracket on the lower transom of Carol's boat, not through the transom. Stainless bolts won't setup electrolosis with Aluminium anyhow.

Rossco

Lone Ranger · #9 01-10-2006, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Rossco32
as they are in an external bracket on the lower transom of Carol's boat, not through the transom. Stainless bolts won't setup electrolosis with Aluminium anyhow.Rossco

I know that Ross

'holes' 'holes' 'holes' I hate the sight of holes. The ones I had on were genuine stainless steels and they were totally 110% rusted! The guy who installed them specially went out to get pay extra for these quality stainless steel ones, and he wasn't impressed when he saw them totally rusted. Gotta get rid of 'holes' ... can't bear the sight of them and the edge of the holes I am sure showed signs of rusts, I think.

Why does everything about boats have to be so damn complex

.... anyway, I found this article that is rather complicating for me however may be interesting to others http://marinesurvey.com/yacht/corrosion_1.htm

EDITED ...

Rossco32 · #10 01-10-2006, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Lone Ranger
I know that Ross 'holes' 'holes' 'holes' I hate the sight of holes. The ones I had on were genuine stainless steels and they were totally 110% rusted! Gotta get rid of 'holes' ... can't bear the sight of them and the edge of the holes I am sure showed signs of rusts, I think.

Why does everything about boats have to be so damn complex .... anyway, I found this article that may be of interest http://marinesurvey.com/yacht/corrosion_1.htm

Carol, I was replying to Mezaire ..............

"The ones I had on were genuine stainless steels and they were totally 110% rusted!".......

RUSTED??? I they were REAL stainless I doubt they would have rusted!...... The stainless tie down and towing eyes on my boat are 16 years old and show no signs of rusting of any kind!...... Unlike the mild steel bolts used on the seats... all rusted solid!

Rossco32 · #11 01-10-2006, 01:05 PM

Quote Yacht survey site:

"Stainless steel comes in a very wide range of alloys. Naturally the best are the most expensive because they contain higher percentages of nickel, which is very expensive. Ergo, builders don't like to pay for this stuff, and that includes all your screws, nuts and bolts. Stainless is quite vulnerable to crevice corrosion, and it's most often to be found on low grade fasteners. The better grades -- this doesn't mean the best and most expensive -- when used for deck hardware do not rust. If you have rusting stainless hardware, it's because it's a low grade."

Rosie · #12 01-10-2006, 08:07 PM

I was going to say they might have been dodgy. We bought standard stainless bolts at Searls fasteners over here in Willetton and 4 years later and i looked and No Sign of rusting on the bolts or the hull. Are you sure the person bought you stainless bolts

Rod · #13 01-10-2006, 08:58 PM

Sicka Flex and a razor you worry wort

Stu_000 · #14 01-10-2006, 09:15 PM

This is interesting and may help here............

http://www.azom.com/details.asp?ArticleID=470

Mezaire · #15 01-10-2006, 10:57 PM

Most stainless you can buy is one of two grades, 304 and 316.

304 is slightly cheaper and is fine for above the water line applications althought it can still get a little surface rust.

316 is full marine grade and is recommended for below waterline situations.

What I was referring to before is galvanic corrosion caused by dissimilar metals coming into contact with saltwater. The best example of this is accidentlly dropping a 5c piece in the bottom of your tinny. If there is also a litle salt water around it it will rust a hoe through your boat in no time at all!!! To stop this you should always you a anti-corrosive joining compound like Duralac or bed the stainless with sikaflex.

Ben