monofiliment or flurocarbon line

[jkis]

wanting to start with lures in the oyster racks, i have braidline but would prefer to use mainline all the way, i would be useing poppers, stickbaits and small divers, and just wondering which line to use and should it be 6,8 or 10pd line, and could you recomend a brand of line too
cheers stuart

[fisho fanatic3]

You have put your self in a tricky situation with your choice of lures. I would use 8-10lb mono for your surface lures to help them swim straight, And 8-10lb flurocarbon for things that go below the surface.

If you can find a mono that has the same property's as flurocarbon (like almost invisible under water) then buy that so it can be used for all.

Hope this helped

[youngfisherman]

Originally Posted by fisho fanatic3

You have put your self in a tricky situation with your choice of lures. I would use 8-10lb mono for your surface lures to help them swim straight, And 8-10lb flurocarbon for things that go below the surface.

If you can find a mono that has the same property's as flurocarbon (like almost invisible under water) then buy that so it can be used for all.

Hope this helped

Nylon Monofilament is pretty much invisible under water?

Why dont you want braided line though? Sometimes you have to vary your line in the racks to get the bites whereas on the flats you can go as light as you want as you can't bust off on anything. Most guys usually use straight through fluorocarbon on the flats which is my point, better off using braid mate.

Todd

[BloodWorm]

Originally Posted by youngfisherman

Nylon Monofilament is pretty much invisible under water?

Why dont you want braided line though? Sometimes you have to vary your line in the racks to get the bites whereas on the flats you can go as light as you want as you can't bust off on anything. Most guys usually use straight through fluorocarbon on the flats which is my point, better off using braid mate.

Todd

I would agree with you Todd.

Better off having braid then run a fluro leader and vary your leader breaking strain and length of leader to suit the conditions.

Not sure how mono/fluro of that thinkness would go casting, feeling bites etc

[jkis]

thanks guys, the main reason i dont want to use the braid is my close vision is not good and would prefer to just tie on another or the next lure quickly without haveing to redo leaders, lately i have been useing the berkly vanish 10pd for my flatty fishing, which is in lots of rocks and snags, the casting hasnt worry'd me, i'm useing, manns 5 and 10plus lures most of the time.
cheers stuart

[Kingpin]

jkis

Best option would be run a fluoro straight through. That way you will meet in the middle of braid and mono. Fluoro is low stretch so bite detection is good, it will have more stopping power than mono and it is near invisible for the stealth factor. Also you can tie your lures straight on without having to fiddle around and abrasion resistance is good for the racks. Make sure you buy a fluoro mainline that is manufactured for this purpose, it needs to be supple.

Cheers
Steve

[youngfisherman]

Originally Posted by Kingpin

jkis

Best option would be run a fluoro straight through. That way you will meet in the middle of braid and mono. Fluoro is low stretch so bite detection is good, it will have more stopping power than mono and it is near invisible for the stealth factor. Also you can tie your lures straight on without having to fiddle around and abrasion resistance is good for the racks. Make sure you buy a fluoro mainline that is manufactured for this purpose, it needs to be supple.

Cheers
Steve

Interesting topic though, "leader" style fluorocarbon has abrasion resistance for rocks and stuff whereas "spinning" style fluorocarbon doesn't. This means you'd have to go alot heavier for the spinning stuff which in the long run means thicker line, may put the fish off or may be a pain to cast etc.

I think you're better off using long fluorocarbon leaders tied to braid around 2-3m long, even if you do chop and change a fair bit you'll still have a fair amount of leader left.

Todd

[Alex]

Originally Posted by fisho fanatic3

I would use 8-10lb mono for your surface lures to help them swim straight, And 8-10lb flurocarbon for things that go below the surface.

What he said, however, I would be using up to 14 lbs mono for the surface in the racks. Also I would not recommend a straight through fluoro as it has way to much stretch to stop the fish before it takes you under.
Cheers

[GTgeoff]

I also use braid and a fluorocarbon leader for most fishing
but I also have a spool of ultima power steel mono which
is coated in fluorocarbon and it's the best mono I have used and
seems to work OK in most situations. I'm no expert but just
thought it might give you another option.

[forsterfisho]

Hi mate

Lots of information here already, not sure how much is tried and tested information or just guys giving their 10 cents worth for the sake of it.

I know of one tournament angler that was testing 6lb fluro straight through for his racks work, the extra stretch and abrasion resistance he thought would give him an edge. I tried 6lb fluro (Sniper) and found it to be very thick and I didnt even bother spooling it, that could be because I'm used to ultra thin braid and 2 and 3lb flurcarbon but I didnt like the feel of the thicker fluro.

I've fished with different guys in the racks from the 2011 ABT final winner through to the average bloke just happy to be fishing and out on the water and every person that I've fished with has had a different view on what works and what doesnt.

If you find it easier to use a line that doesnt require tying knots, i'd stick with flurocarbon and see how you go with that to start off with. If you can manage to tie knots, i'd start with something like 6lb fireline (breaks well above breaking strain) and 10lb leader. This starting point will allow you to throw light crank baits and tiny topwaters while still giving you a chance to get the fish out of nasty structure.

If your getting busted off constistantly perhaps go up a size or 3 in leader or if your finding your getting the fish to the boat easy enough, perhaps drop a leader size and increase your bite rate.

If your knots are bulky i'd run only a short leader for a couple of reasons - A) I think fishing in racks is a reaction bite (especially with topwater) the fish wont sit there and look at it and go "gee, that leader is a bit short...better not eat that!" they'll just see something that looks like a prawn and wack it. B) the shorter leader will stop your leader knot having to knock against all your guides when casting and ensure your leader knot doesnt cast itself off during a cast.

I fished ultra clean (within 1km of a mouth at forster on a run in tide) and we were using braid and leader and we still caught fish at the recent grand final. I was surprised to how many we caught considering the crystal clear water and the heavier braid that was being used.

I use flurocarbon for topwater and even though it sinks I don't have too much trouble getting the right action from my lures. Some guys swear by mono but I like to keep things simple and costs down, so fluro and braid for me.

So in summary, if using fluro makes it easier and more enjoyable for you to use, well give it a go. If you can tie a knot that is reasonably strong than I'd reccomend braid and that ability to change leaders to suit conditions, but keep a reasonably short leader to save it rubbing against your guides everytime you cast.

I'd reccomend FC sniper or Toray Bawo flurocarbon if you want to go straight through, I'd start with 6lb and trial and error from there. If you want to use braid as I said before i'd reccomend 6lb fireline to start off with to save some $$ or castaway 10lb if you'd like to splurge a little, a few spools of 8-10-12lb leader, I use FC Rock personally so i'd give that a shot perhaps.

Cheers,
Dion.

[jkis]

thank you all very much for the replies, it has helped me a lot, i will try some different lines to see how they go.
regards stuart