Rod Builders

[Macca23]

G'day,

I have built a few rods but im still a bit new to rod building and i was wondering a few things.

1. Is it worth underbinding. some say it takes pressure off the blank and others say it just adds weight. ??

2. Should i grind the feet of the guides to to help me wrap them or will taking off the coating make them rust??

thanks
Macca

[Hotrods]

#1. single foot guides, no need to.
double foot guides, in most cases yes. as the 2 feet of the guide push or pull against each other while the blank is casting or under load, possible causing friction / damage to the blank surface.

#2. again yes and no, depends on the brand. FUJI now have changed the format of the guide foot to create an nice angle to bind up on. but in most cases and depending on what size thread you use, it is advisable and make life easer, to prep the foot. if your worried about corroision issues simply recoat the ground area straight after you have prepped it, let them dry for a day or so and go to binding.
the main cause of rust forming on ground feet is the resin has not soaked into the 'tunnel' created along side the foot and the blank when binding. if its not soaked and sealed water can get to the ground area and it will rust.

by using a low build resin and applying very soon after mixing nd settleing it will be thin enought to provide a good soak into that tunnel.

hope that helps !

[Macca23]

Thanks heaps hot rods.

I'm using FUJI BYAG guides so they should have the good foot yeah?

Also if i need to grind them, do i just use a file and then what would i coat the foot with?

[Hotrods]

the small hook sharpening stones are handy. thats what i used to use WAY back when... all dremil or stone on the micro lathe nowdays.

recoat with anythign you want. just need a hard layer.

small pot of ENAMEL like the Tester stuff for models or a rattle can of engine ENAMEL is a go. just let it well and tryly dry for a few days or the tension of the thread when binding will cut into it and make a mess...

the ALCONITE's ahev the new foot design, fine with C grade un prepped but tricky with A grade un prepped.

i prep the majority of mine to get a smooth clean transition from the blank to the guide. stops a lot of the resin bruising as well...

[Shortlite]

Originally Posted by Macca23

Thanks heaps hot rods.

I'm using FUJI BYAG guides so they should have the good foot yeah?

Also if i need to grind them, do i just use a file and then what would i coat the foot with?

Fine with large diameter thread like C or D, but need heaps more work for use with A, B, silk, or anything finer.

Depending on the temper of the steel, a fine metal file, grinding stone in a dremel, and a final lick with 400 grit paper will usually get some metal off quickly. You want a nice gradual taper from the toe of the guide foot to the full thickness. This will allow the thread to ranp on easily, and reduce epoxy cracking later down the line.

I concur with Perrie on applying the finish to the tunnels as freshly mixed and warm as possible. It will be thinnest at this stage and soak in well. Apply the epoxy to the wrap quickly and move on: come back later to even it and touch up once all wraps are covered.

Underwrapping is generally in the realm of heavier duty rods that will experience a lot of heavy loading. Light tackle rods like the ones we use for bream fishing don't need them: adds too much extra weight in thread and epoxy. However, on the double footers, used on heavier rods, or in the butt area of some rods, that push/pull effect does cause some guide movement, so an underbind of "A" thread would certainly help. Your choice of finishing the underbind and wrapping the guide wraps over it later, or wrapping both up and then finishing in one hit. The latter needs thin epoxy to soak in, seal and displace all the air before it sets.

[brad mcdonald]

Originally Posted by Hotrods

all dremil or stone on the micro lathe nowdays.

SPOILT! you realy should roll one by hand again just to remember the cramping feeling in your fingers .....

what owen & perrrie said X 2 .... or is that 3?

[Hotrods]

baahumbug ! lol
i still do a lot of my wrapping by hand mate ! only really use the motor for the big stuff. so i feel ya pain !

[Macca23]

Thanks for the info guys.

I am using 'A' thread so it think i will grind the feet..

i'll post up some pics when done to show how she turns out..

Cheers Macca

[Jay]

When I was rolling rods semi-professionally I would use a diamond file to grind the feet down no matter what guide, it always help when using fine thread.

As said, good sealing by the epoxy should negate any rust.

I always underwrapped double foot guides, and the first guide on light rods/fly rods whether double or single. Looked better on the light stuff, and as said theres more movement with double foot guids thus making it a good idea.

Theres no way I would do one by hand ever again, once I moved to a lathe there was no turning back

[BlackBreamer]

Conventionl hand wrapping gotta love it.... I have a lathe sitting outside i need too start power binding it's way quicker..... Grind the feet but make sure there are no burr's left on the inside of the guide foot it will cause damage to you blank i have never put an underbind on a light rod no need as said...Jigging stix, game rods, popper rods yes most definately underbind them and if you want double overbind depends on what im building but Game sticks i always double over... Good luck mate would love to see the finished product...Cheers BB