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Getting Started If you’re new to the Sport then this is the forum for you. |
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#16
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Here's a system that used to work well in the Nong.
PLastics will work at the same times Quote:
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#17
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Yep +1 pretty much what I do -except no fresh for me. I hit the docks on an "unfavourable" tide as I've pretty much found the tide makes little difference there
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#18
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Ok so I have only 2 hard bodies for bream a subdog by strike pro(suspending) and a minnow of some sort (suspending diver.$
Last edited by Ribskull; 15-02-2015 at 11:34 PM. |
#19
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I was wondering which of these would be best for surface breaming this Saturday to Monday, they are the smallest I got, there's an atomic k9 walker, 2 sure catch poppers and 2 Zara pups. |
#20
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Hey bud check your pm box
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#21
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#22
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Can anyone explain the high low and the low low tides and how they effect the fishing?
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#23
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Quote:
or spring/neap cycles, which follow the moon phases (monthly) where the currents run stronger (i.e. lower lows and higher highs) at spring tides (new moon and full moon), and currents run weaker (i.e. smaller difference between high/low tidal peaks/troughs) at neap tides (at quarter/half moon cycles). Different fish react very differently to tidal flow - some love the outgoing (flatties), and others love the incoming (particularly at the start of it). Fishing for bream, I've had mixed results either way (in WA anyway) - very location dependent. As a rule of thumb, try fish the outgoing tide where you think the majority of water is draining into, such as gutters, mouths of feeder creeks, shallow channels. On the rising/high tide, fish banks where fish may only have access to those locations at high water (flats, oyster/mussel banks, many other options too!) Some fish also hate very fast or very slow water. As the current flows fastest right in between tides, it often pays to fish an hr or so either side of high/low - depending of course on the amount of tidal flow. It doesn't matter too much in Perth as we only get ~0.6m between high and low per cycle! |
#24
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First bream On the worm went about 30 cm forgot to measure |
#25
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Nice mate. Congrats
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#26
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The face of victory! Well done mate
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#27
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Oathkeeper strikes again |
#28
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Awesome work mate! Well done
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#29
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Ok, so these were caught on marukyu worms but I feel they are flimsy as all heck, went through 6.5 in 1 session and they only come in packs of 8 and are also more expensive, though they are environmentally friendly. I was getting snagged and pulling out only a jighead, and the gulp worms I find mold to the jighead, and are more sturdy on the jighead. With marukyu I was constantly resizing my worm due it splitting up the middle. I'm a bit lost, i think ill just grab some crab soft plastics as there are a lot of crabs around where I fish.
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#30
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Quote:
Crab imitations take plenty of bream in the local systems but they aren't a good landbased prospecting/searching lure - they work best when cast into areas where bream are holding or actively foraging and then dead stocked or very little action applied. So not so good for searching stretches of bank to locate fish. In my opinion the best crab lure is the cranka crab but it's a $20+ hardbody. The next are the marukyu crabs but these are a bio-bait and have similar longevity issues to the worms you've used. Then there are the plastics - bait breath rockin crabs, madeye crabs etc. The new kid on the block is the savage gear 3D crab. Personally I've never had much luck with ttr plastic crabs and I'm not confident throwing them. If you want to work the banks why don't you go back to the squidgy wrigglers or grab some 2.5" or 2" grubs. Can't go too far wrong with a hooked on plastic grub in bloodworm or a bloodworm squidgy wriggler (Hooked on plastics are on Facebook and probably the best value grub you'll find). If you want real longevity then a zman grub in motor oil (need headlokz jigheads or a dab of superglue to help keep them in the jighead). |
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