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  #166  
Old 28-05-2013, 05:54 AM
SLAZMO
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Similar to the metallic oil I make with Nickel Anti Seize in Mx3 or 4 oil - with a ratio of about 1/2 a teaspoon to a bottle of inox oil (in a singer dropper bottle) with a bolt in it to disperse it when shaken.

The result is loud at first in a bearing however after time the nickel acts as a crucible / hard surface and gives the bearings (stainless and steel only) a longer working life and good tolerance to salt corrosion and anti seizing.
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  #167  
Old 28-05-2013, 05:56 AM
Alexc123 Alexc123 is offline
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Thanks I'll track down some mx7 tomorrow. I've only really used the tac2 on hinge pins etc mainly and have been quite impressed by its longevity in this scenario. I stupidly ended up oiling my clutch the other day by putting oil under the rotor on my biomaster should i be cleaning the oil out of it?
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  #168  
Old 28-05-2013, 06:03 AM
SLAZMO
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Originally Posted by Alexc123 View Post
I stupidly ended up oiling my clutch the other day by putting oil under the rotor on my biomaster should i be cleaning the oil out of it?
If its Carbontex then yes - if its the felt drag washers Shimano state as Titanium something or other which looks like a white washer when new - it should be alright. The oil will mix with the greased felt washer and will only make it work a little smoother and maybe a little less drag pressure overall.

Problem is that I mix oil with grease and add that to my Carbontex washers lol... It works pretty good and sinks into the washers nice!
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  #169  
Old 28-05-2013, 06:30 AM
Alexc123 Alexc123 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLAZMO View Post
If its Carbontex then yes - if its the felt drag washers Shimano state as Titanium something or other which looks like a white washer when new - it should be alright. The oil will mix with the greased felt washer and will only make it work a little smoother and maybe a little less drag pressure overall.

Problem is that I mix oil with grease and add that to my Carbontex washers lol... It works pretty good and sinks into the washers nice!
thanks but its not the drag system,its the plastic bodied thing under the rotor, similar to this one and just contains metal parts and a porous looking rubber washer http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ima...1139900158.gif
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  #170  
Old 28-05-2013, 06:36 AM
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ha ha I'm way off... If you've removed that actual rotor and oiled the anti reverse - rather than the drag 'clutch' thats ok. I always drop a fine point oiler in there and put a dot of oil on each roller bearing. If you've ever seen inside one of these its a pretty complicated mess of metal and springs...

Eg: never open it further than that!!!

Just make sure that the oil you use is light and not to viscose... Any grease in that part will destroy its intended workings as the springs are uber fine and work on fine tolerances. Clean it out yearly with a little turps as brake cleaner / carbie cleaner could react with the plastic too violently and re oil it well and on those springs around the edge.
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  #171  
Old 28-05-2013, 08:58 AM
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Time for my SOLs drag uprade...

Took 10 days to get them here from Smoothdrag, hope well worth the wait.

Will test at Coota in a few weeks time.

Cheers
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  #172  
Old 28-05-2013, 12:05 PM
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oust is awesome mate

just gotta make sure your bearings are clean before you add the oust
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  #173  
Old 29-05-2013, 05:32 PM
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Just a recap after doing 5 reels yesterday afternoon on my rainy RDO...

The Inox MX7 Teflon grease is good to use in AR bearings in baitcast reels - this bearing is in the handle shaft side of the reel. Found that its smoother than just plain oil and will possibly give better longevity to that particular bearing set.

Read this pdf - if anyone is unsure about its application -> http://www.lubecontrol.com.au/wp-con...s/INOX-MX7.pdf

Put in 4 Carbontex drag sets myself in a Coriolis, Caenan, Callisto and Saros - all cut by hand and got to say I love the stuff!
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  #174  
Old 31-05-2013, 12:56 AM
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thinking of getting some mx7 as grease for moving parts and getting some bones speed cream for the bearings to redo my stradic ci4's and curado.

would these products be alright? do i need anything else?
(using shellite to clean bearings and wash down)

doing the curado 200e now and wondering should i put mx7 on the washers?

Last edited by Siddo; 31-05-2013 at 06:06 AM.
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  #175  
Old 31-05-2013, 08:44 AM
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I would use the MX7 on the drive gears like I said - but get yourself some Mercury 2-4-C as you wont be dissapointed!

I personally wouldnt use any of the MX7 on the drag as its basically a lithium grease with a high content of teflon which could make it too slippery. Just use some 2-4-C worked between your fingers and work it into the drag washer equally - I do drop a few drops of Inox MX4 oil onto the washer also.

No need to use anything like Cals - my local Pete who does reels at a business scale said that Cals is over rated bigtime. He does everything from small baitcasters to Tiagra's with the 2-4-C and Inox oils and people love the results.

Just remember that "you overspecialise and you compromise".

If you lived near me you could drop it off and I could show you how its done.

Last edited by SLAZMO; 31-05-2013 at 08:47 AM.
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  #176  
Old 01-06-2013, 03:42 AM
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I had a go giving my Stradic 1000 FI a service. Big learning curve. This thread was helpful and also used youtube and Alan Tani's site.

It all went pretty smooth, did it slowly. One problem though, now the anti reverse doesnt work!

Any tips?
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  #177  
Old 01-06-2013, 05:38 AM
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Soak the clutch in shellite and then reinstall but this time don't overkill with the oil.
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  #178  
Old 01-06-2013, 05:43 AM
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Is the clutch the big black plastic round thing? I did really touch that exept to take it of and put it back later. I put loads of grease in the bearing under it though.

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  #179  
Old 01-06-2013, 08:48 AM
Alexc123 Alexc123 is offline
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Yeah it's the round plastic part under the rotor.
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  #180  
Old 01-06-2013, 09:45 PM
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I had the pinion collar upside down. All good now. She's smooth as.
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