......so what reel specifications matter?

[silver]

I think it's clear from the last thread that a) a 1000 size reel has enough line capacity for bream fishing and b) for most applications it also has enough drag. So what reel specifications actually matter for bream fishing? I think some of them are as follows:

retrieve rate

Most people seem to say a low retrieve rate is best for most bream styles because it keeps the lure moving slowly and low gear ratios mean less resistance when the handle is turned, giving more control. A faster retrieve rate is only used when fishing around snags to muscle the fish out quickly, and when using fast retrieve lures.

Weight

The key seems to be not too heavy and balanced to the rod.

Casting distance

Not something I know much about - reviews of the Daiwa Tournament SS emphasise it's casting distance so clearly some reels do this better than others. Be interesting to know if anyone has done any scientific/proper tests.

Line lay

Better reels lay the line more evenly which is probably tied to casting distance and avoidance of wind knots.

Handle circumference and knob style

Some people will prefer larger, some smaller. This one seems to be entirely individual preference.

Durability

A reel needs to be able to produce sustained performance and not break or deteriorate. This feature includes the factory lubrication and seals, ease of cleaning, non-corrosion features and waterproofness.

Line twist

A good reel reduces line twist which reduces tangles.

I haven't mentioned number of bearings or materials etc because from what I can tell these vary but don't indicate a reels performance (ie more bearings doesn't make it a better reel).

I don't claim to be an expert but welcome any thoughts or additions to this list.

Added

drag quality

The drag has to be smooth and consistent at all settings

[Andye81]

I'm a complete novice, so am looking forward to everyone's opinions. For me, a lot of it comes down to personal preference.

My main thought process when selecting reels is balance, weight and function. I have two reels for my bream fishing ( both in 1000 size)

As I only really target smaller estuary fish, 1000 size are perfect for me. And with the quality of reels these days, I feel that 1000 size could handle a fair amount of punishment on the standard estuary species that I run into in the hacking and George's rivers.

[piketronic]

imo would prefer 2000-2004-2506 for bream,rather than 1000.The greater spool diameter of 2000 allows a bit longer cast,besides unlike the 1000, they have a normal size gears-so smoother and last longer.The comfortable weight is up to 220gr max.imo.Quality line laying is much more important here than the amount of bearings.

[MiSCrEANT]

retrieve rate

Most people seem to say a low retrieve rate is best for most bream styles because it keeps the lure moving slowly and low gear ratios mean less resistance when the handle is turned, giving more control. A faster retrieve rate is only used when fishing around snags to muscle the fish out quickly, and when using fast retrieve lures.

Dependent on your fishing style. Small HBs, slower retreive. If I could find a 3:1 ratio reel, I would buy it. But when reeling bream in it doesn't really make a difference until you start fighting the bigger sport fish.

Weight

The key seems to be not too heavy and balanced to the rod.

200-230g suits most light bream rods. And how you grip the combo when fishing dictates how balanced combo can feel.

Casting distance

Not something I know much about - reviews of the Daiwa Tournament SS emphasise it's casting distance so clearly some reels do this better than others. Be interesting to know if anyone has done any scientific/proper tests.

With modern reels and especially the two big giants in the industry having great systems to increase casting distance, you shouldn't have a problem with Shimano or Daiwa reels. Surf reel spools have larger spools that are suited to longer and more powerful rods that cast heavy weights. The factor that will affect your distance when breaming is your line. Lighter further.

Line lay

Better reels lay the line more evenly which is probably tied to casting distance and avoidance of wind knots.

Shimano and Daiwa are leaders in line lay. Stick to them. Watch out when winding in slack line.

Handle circumference and knob style

Some people will prefer larger, some smaller. This one seems to be entirely individual preference.

Non-slip knobs are my preference.

Durability

A reel needs to be able to produce sustained performance and not break or deteriorate. This feature includes the factory lubrication and seals, ease of cleaning, non-corrosion features and waterproofness.

Pay for a decent reel that is known by others for their performance. And get your reels serviced or do them yourself. Standard user maintenance helps alot too.

Line twist

A good reel reduces line twist which reduces tangles.

More user-based. Examples, When spooling up line, winding handle when snagged or when fish is taking line. Answer is quality swivels.


It depends on how much you want to pay really in these times. If I had $500 bucks on a bream combo, I would $150 on the reel and $275 on the rod and the rest on the line. Line is very important when breaming.

[The G factor]

I prefer a faster gear ratio for any type of lure fishing, the ability to quickly wind up slack/wind in a lure or fish is a huge bonus. With hard bodies just slow the retrieve right down.

You can always reel slower with a high gear reel but when it comes to burning a lure in a low gear reel is a pain in the ass in comparison.

[stripler]

How I buy a reel: The big three

1. Speed.

Over 5:0 - fishing plastics on the bottom (lift and drop) or fast metals for Pelagics

Under 5:0 - fishing slow plastics and hard body lures

Generally the slower the retrieve the smoother the reel is. So if you can get a larger reel with a slower retrieve you will end up with a smoother reel and some will say a longer cast. As long as the reel isn't too heavy for your rod then this is the ultimate win.

2. Drag.

This is more of an indulgence for those of us who like to hear drag pinging off but it never hurts to choose a drag that suits your style.

Look to the Japanese models and you will see what appropriate drag is. Most bream fishing uses bugger all drag like 1kg, and the 7kg of drag coming out on Aussie models is pointless and robs you of the awesome fine tuning and drama you get with the Jdm spools.

3. Weight.

This is not light vs heavy it's about what balances with your rod. Really the only way to find this out is to try it or try something similar. I balance by gripping the rod how I normally would then releasing all fingers except the index . If the rod dramatically dips forward your reel is too light. Backward and it's too heavy. In the real world you can tell a reel is too light because it feels like the rod might go in after the lure when you give it a solid cast.

Example:

I want a reel for fishing small hardbodies and my rod weighs 90 grams. My testing with other reels suggest I'm looking for something a little under 200 grams to balance it. I have narrowed it down to two reels.

Sustain 1000

- 6:0 receive ratio - 73cm per crank
- 5kg of drag
- 185 grams

Luvias 2004

- 4.8 retrieve ratio - 63cm per crank
- 2kg of drag
- 190 grams

As you can see the Luvias is more appropriate for my intended use here. For this style the sustain would be too fast and as a bonus the luvias is larger, slower (good in this example) and has more appropriate drag.

To switch things up. If I was looking for something to fish plastics on the bottom or against structure, or even some light spinning for salmon, then the sustain would be more appropriate.

[woronora]

My two cents, although not much, is drag quality.

A smooth drag, particularly when using thin line diameters, could mean the difference between landing and losing fish. Hence the carbontex washer that are frequently sort. This is also more likely to play its part when wrangling bigger fish.

[silver]

Thanks woronora

I've added drag quality to the list.

I'm still finding it strange how few posts on this forum actually say anything at all about the key features.

[stripler]

That's because they're mostly just marketing. The things you have already taken on board are essentially covered across the 'features' that each brand claims and you would be here all week trying to disambiguate them all.

They are available on the manufacturers website if you are interested in a particular thing. Basically you figure out which reel requirements you want first then you go and figure out what each manufacturer calls them.

[silver]

If you are saying that what is important about a reel is buried in marketing jargon, then I agree.

However the point of this thread is what I perceived to be a lack of decent analysis of what that marketing is disguising ie the true points that differentiate any two reels. For bream fishing. I don't claim to be an expert but it's weird how some 'truths' get perpetuated ie 'get the 2500 you'll want the extra line capacity'.

A lot of this came about from reading Alan Hawk's website, especially his review of the fin-nor lethal 100 and his lists. It would be good if we had someone that knowledgeable studying the features of light spin reels.

[stripler]

Have you seen Profisher.com.ua on YouTube? They do breakdowns of a lot of light spin reels. They don't describe what they are pulling apart but once you have done a few yourself you get the idea.

http://youtu.be/99PzwHSGLWE

[silver]

it may be handy but there is no analysis of relevant components or design features of each reel.

[Sloth]

I think it's too easy to overthink things.

If it's all smooth on the drag and rotor it's all good. Then for me it's all about application. For breamin where I'm confident bigger bycatch is unlikely I'll go lighter drag and shallow spool. If I'm night fishing the estuary then I'll go bigger drag and deeper spool .... Just in case.

I fish only 250x reels as I find line management and casting easier with the larger spool. So I use a caldia 2506 for breamin and a stradic 2500 for general estuary fishing.

Always go high gear too if possible for the same reasons as G Factor - easier to crank a high gear slow than a low gear fast. I also find being able to take in line quickly suits my fishing style. I think a lot of the differences in features are in our heads.

Because I fish 250x a lot of people would think my reels are too heavy for some of my rods but too be honest when it comes to balance I think that's about the right reel, spooled with the right line for the rod with the right action and rating. I don't think it's about weight distribution - well I've never come home from fishing with sore wrists or arms because my reels too heavy .....

[Ryan9908]

my golden rules are:

1) the reel MUST match the rod.

2) don't get 1000 reels, casting distance sucks on them and only a few rods in the market can pair them perfectly.

3) 2000+ reel will definitely cast further and be able to balance most rods.

4) you get what you paid for and they are really apple and orange. you get most benefit from a reel at around $400 price point, anything above than you are just getting the small margin of the perfection.

5) don't get too fussy on the gear ratio, you can always go slow with your hand.

6) most reels have a good drag, it's more important to set the right drag pressure, no bream can spool you 100meters away.